Ford 600 3pt lift... won't!

New to this site, hope I figured out how to ask a question. Have a 600 series, (thought it was a Jubilee) Was working fine, 5' brush hog mower, stopped to move some things, started it back up and it would not lift! Had been slow to lift when cold preceding this, but worked ok when warm. Have had two "tractor guys" look at it but apparently not old Ford tractor guys. I've read about some little valve "sticking" and causing this, but I can't find the info again and I know there are several little valves in there. Would order a manual, but what good would that do if I don't know what I'm looking for. Do these manuals have trouble shooting guides? Need my tractor to work! Help!... please!
Thanks!

I'm not sure how handy you are, but, this could involve removing the top cover from the rear end, to get into the lift mechanism.

There are several things that could be wrong. If you say that it was slow to respond before, or not lifting all the way, perhaps lifting partially then bobbing or bouncing, it could just be low on fluid, or, it could be that the pump was on it's way out.

It could be many more things as well. Some tractors had a diverter valve to divert from the 3 pt to a single acting valve. Did you bump that getting back on the tractor? The fill plug for the hydraulics is not the same for the transmission. I think it is on the left side under the seat.


'nother edit: the 600 tractors didn't have the diverter, that was the jubilee-naa tractors.

Thanks for the reply! Fairly handy... been around tractors all my life, but moved "to the city" for 30 odd years before I had a tractor around again... and they were even older Fords and M/Fs. The one "tractor guy" gave me 8 gallons of old diesel to run thru it. .. because I told him when I bought it, the oil was milky, so I knew water had gotten in there and who knows for how long. "flushed" it three times, filled with new oil, still nothing. Second guy thought the pump was bad, although I could bleed the front cap and oil would come out, and the back one definitely had pressure, but he didn't think enough... but no gauge was used. He gave me another pump off another tractor, this one only has one plug on it, no "bleeder" plug, but it still won't do anything... and he won't return my phone calls. Looking for someone who has been down this road... I CAN'T be the first... and a step by step of what to check and what to do would be GREAT! I don't want to take that top off... but if I have to and am convinced it will fix this thing I will. Thanks again!

Welcome to YT, I'm sure we can help you.

Troubleshooting these hydraulic systems on 600/800 series tractors can be fun. The Ford and ITT manuals cover some of this and should be your next investments.

Before you start wrenching. Answer a few questions.

1. Which pump do you have. A round piston pump or a square vane pump. It is possible that your pump has lost its prime has some air in it. The bleeding procedure is different with the two pumps.

2. Do you have a remote valve attached to the 3"X"5 accessory plate? That is located between your legs and under the front of the seat.

3. Have done anything yet?

4. Have you checked the oil on the dip stick, or better yet changed the oil with UTF.

The valve you are talking about is called the unloader vavle. It is located under the top cover of the rear sump. If you pull the top cover this is one thing I would overhaul. Also I would replace the o-ring and backup washer on the piston. Both are not too difficult to do. Also, I would plan on replacing the cam follower pin if it is at all worn.

90% of all the problems on these system come down to these four things. The easiest to check is pump prime.

If you decide to pull the top cover, do yourself a favor and check for internal leaks first. To do that, remove the round cover plate with the dip stick and PTO lever on it. Oil should be up to the bottom hole. Start the tractor with a heavy load on 3 point. Then with the lift in the air turn the tractor off. If the lift falls, you have a leak. But either way look inside the hole with a flashlight and mirror. You may be able to see where the leak it.

Hope this is some help.

Can I but blunt with my thoughts Sounds like you have a piston pump! Take the front 3/8 plug out, pull the coil wire and turn the engine over with the starter. If you see air bubbles, it needs to be bled. Quickest way to bleed the pump is hook a 3/8 hose to the bled hole on the pump and run hose to the fill cap under the seat and run the tractor until there is no more air. If you can't get a steady stream of oil, then it's time to repair the pump. If you get a full stream then the lift chest need to be looked at.. And in my opinion, the unloading valve will be the least of your problems.

I need to apologies for the statements I have made in my last post.. I probably should have said that the unloading valve is blamed for a lot of hyd problems that are not it's fault. I am sorry if I offended anyone with any of the statements in the last post.

No offence from me!! I have on several occasions, with the engine running, loosened that plug till oil was coming out rapidly. I guess running hose back in the fill plug would be better. I really don't think the pump is the problem, because I put the another one on that was supposed to have been working when it was parked, and the lift still doesn't work... but I will try the routing the hose trick because I haven't tried that. BUT... if the pump is ok... does anyone remember something about a valve that can be accessed through an inspection plate, or something like that, that can be R/R without pulling the top cover off? I'm sure I read that somewhere, but can't find it now.. :-(

Running a clear hose from the bleeder hole to the sump fill is a good way to diagnose the a suction side leak on the pump. If the hose just pumps oil all is well, if it is full of bubbles you have suction side leak, usually the wobble shaft seal.

As to repairing anything inside the sump without removing the top cover, you are out of luck. Nothing you can do except replacing the accessory plate o-rings. Removing the top cover is simple enough it just take two guys, or an engine hoist, to lift it, but I would not do that until you are sure the pump is fine.

On the right front corner, on top of the lift chest is an accessory plate with a 3/8 pipe plug in it. If you have proven the pump to be good, remove the plug from the plate, and with the coil wire pulled, crank the engine and see if oil will come out of this hole. If it doesn't, I might have to "eat crow" as the unloading valve might be the problem, and the lift chest will have to come off to access it. You might want to pull the left hand inspection cover, the one with the PTO shifter handle, to see where the pumped oil is going

"anyone remember something about a valve that can be accessed through an inspection plate"

I remember reading that about the N series Fords. Whole different animal though.